Where to Go in Eritrea

Asmara
Eritrea’s capital, Asmara, was only a small cluster of villages at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1897, the Italian colonial government moved the administration there from Massawa. Today, Italian architecture prevails in the city. The magnificent Cathedral (1922), built in the Lombardian style, is not far from a bustling market. Fruit and vegetables, bric-a-brac, spices, used furniture, ceramics, handicrafts and clothes are sold on the stalls. There are a number of churches and mosques which can be visited. Marble from the Italian Carrara quarry was used to build the largest mosque, Khalufa el Rashidin. Gold and silver jewelry is on offer at the nearby market. Palms and colorful bougainvillaea line the main avenues. The National Avenue is the major thoroughfare of the city; an ideal place to meet people and enjoy the numerous cafes and bars. The Avenue is also the address for the Government Administrative Center, the Asmara Theater (built 1918), the Catholic Cathedral and the Town Hall. The former residence of the colonial rulers, the Ghibi or palace, is used today as the National Museum. The University and the Mai Jahjah Fountain are also interesting.

Elsewhere
The road from Asmara to Massawa, 105km (65 miles), is both spectacular and beautiful. It descends from 2438m (8000ft) to sea level, with hairpin bends on the escarpment, and magnificent views over the coastal desert strip. It passes the famous Orthodox Monastery of Debre Bizen. Massawa was an important center in ancient times and remains and, to this day, the largest natural deep-water port on the Red Sea. If Asmara is an ‘Italian’ city, Massawa is ‘Turko-Egyptian’, reflecting the periods of Ottoman and Egyptian rule from the 16th century to the late 19th century. Dams connect the islands of Batsi and Twalet with the main part of the city.
The port and old town of Batsi were damaged during the civil war but are still impressive. The Iman Hanbeli Mosque escaped damage. Batsi Island is a good area for restaurants, cafes and bars; visitors can take a small boat to Sheikh Said Island (also known as Isola Verde), a favorite picnic spot. Twalet has fine examples of Italian architecture. There is also a badly damaged Ghibi or palace. It was originally built in the 15th century, but has been much altered and restored since then. It was badly damaged in the civil war and is again in need of restoration. The Port Club has a restaurant, a museum, a small library and sporting facilities. North of Massawa is the white sandy beach of Gergussum. It is a good place to sunbathe or swim.
From here, it is not far to Emberemi, famous for the mausoleums of Sheikh el Amin and Muhammad Ibn Ali. It is an important pilgrimage site. Nakfa in Satel province is famous as the main site and symbol of resistance during the war with Ethiopia. The nearby towns of Denden, Orota and Afabet still bear the scars of fighting although much rebuilding has been completed. Keren, in the Province of Senhit, is like a miniature Asmara. The Forto was built during the Turkish period. Also of interest are the religious sites of the Tomb of Said Abu Bakr el Mirgani and the Mariam de Arit. Debre Sina, near Elabered on the Asmara–Keren road, is also a noteworthy monastery. The modern city of Asseb in the southeasterly Province of Denkalia has many pleasant beaches.
The Turkish and Egyptian colonial periods left numerous interesting buildings and sites in Akordat (Barka Province). Here is situated the tomb of Said Mustafa wad Hasan. Qohaito, Metera and Rora Habab are also important archaeological sites.


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