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San FranciscoThe most attractive of American cities and regularly voted the best city in the USA, San Francisco is adored because of its colorful history, dramatic setting and its laissez-faire atmosphere, a quality missing from synthetic Los Angeles. It is a regular trendsetter in everything alternative, from flower-power to 'free love' and gay liberation; it prides itself on being individualistic, down-to-earth and cultured.
Streets rollercoaster up and down the hills, and when not swathed in the city's trademark fog, there are superb vistas of San Francisco Bay, spanned by
one of the world's most famous sights, the Golden Gate Bridge. Surrounded by hills and urban development, traversed by bridges, dotted with sails and 14 small islands, including the notorious Alcatraz, the bay is the largest inlet on the Californian Coast. Fisherman's Wharf at the edge of the bay is a popular place to eat, stroll and shop, with its resident seals a favorite photographic subject.
Within the surprisingly compact city are distinct neighborhoods that reflect the cultural background of diverse communities that were attracted to San Francisco by the discovery of gold in 1848, and the promise of a new life for those desperate to escape their harsh circumstances. Most of San Francisco's residents were born outside the city and this mix of cultures is reflected in the dragon-studded temples of colorful Chinatown and Japantown, the characteristic bohemian flavor of the Italian pasta restaurants and cappuccino cafes in North Beach, the old Spanish-speaking Mission District that blends with the nightlife of SoMa, the modern Financial District, the gay center of Castro and The Haight, characterized by the memory of the hippie movement of the 1960s.
Getting Around: The public transport system in San Francisco is known as MUNI and operates buses, electric trolley buses and the famous cable cars as well as metro streetcars (underground trains that become street cars when they emerge above ground). MUNI is sometimes late and crowded, but San Francisco is one of the few cities in America in which residents make good use of public transport. Driving is extremely difficult, due to traffic, an unconventional street layout, impossible parking and, of course, very steep streets - though a rental car may be necessary for trips farther afield. MUNI offers access to all parts of the city; exact change is required, and the same fare applies to all services except the cable cars, which are more expensive (but well worth at least one ride - the Powell-Hyde route is the most scenic). Passengers can ask for a free transfer with each ticket bought, which allows another two rides on a bus or train and gives a 50 percent discount on cable cars within 90 minutes. MUNI trains and buses run 24 hours a day, with a more limited service after midnight; buses late at night are not always safe to use. MUNI Passports are available for one, three and seven days, allowing unlimited use of public transport within the city limits. The other transport system, known as BART, is a fast and economical subway/rail network that connects the city to the East Bay as well as the airport. Taxis are also available in the city but can be hard to find, especially during peak hours. During the day, perhaps the best option is to walk; lots of locals do. However, be prepared to climb a few hills.
Los AngelesMillions of visitors arrive each year in Los Angeles eager to experience for themselves the epitome of the American Dream; to find the self-indulgent living soap-opera lifestyles, to experience firsthand the images that are strangely-familiar thanks to the 'big screen', and to walk in the footsteps of the stars. The fantasy worlds of Disneyland and Hollywood, the famed extravagance of Beverley Hills and Malibu, and the sun-soaked beach culture are just some of the attractions within this 'City of Angels'.
Los Angeles is not really a city but rather a sprawling metropolis constituting more than 80 smaller city areas woven together by a daunting network of traffic-congested freeways without a clearly defined center. LA is just one of these cities with Downtown at its heart, and lying outside the city limits is the surrounding conglomeration of cities that comprises LA County.
Los Angeles offers a dazzling variety of attractions and world-famous amusements. Downtown is a mixture of cultures and local communities: the traditional herbalists of Chinatown's Bamboo Lane; Little Tokyo with its sushi bars and Japanese gardens; and the narrow Latino-influenced Olvera Street. Los Angeles County is endowed with a rich diversity of backgrounds and is a mix-and-match of people from 140 countries speaking 96 different languages, of those who have left home to seek acceptance for ideas or unconventional lifestyles not tolerated in the more conservative parts of the country, and would-be stars with dreams of fame and fortune. West Hollywood is the focal point of gay and lesbian culture, and the posh beachside resort of Santa Monica and body-builders at Muscle Beach, as well as the childhood fantasy of Disneyland are all a part of the diversity, although not always a harmonious one. There are exciting museums, cinemas featuring every conceivable production, swanky boutiques with the latest fashions, comedy clubs, poetry readings and coffee house recitals, and music of every kind played in various venues throughout the city.
Underneath the huge 'Hollywood' sign on the crest of the Hollywood Hills, the high energy and pleasure-seeking atmosphere, bold billboards, sexy sun-bronzed people, bright lights and fancy cars are images of a city that everyone loves to hate; but whether one likes what one finds or not, Los Angeles must be experienced at least once in a lifetime.
Getting Around: The city of LA sprawls over such a large area that getting around without a car can be frustrating and time consuming. The complex network of freeways connecting the sprawl can be intimidating, especially for those not used to driving in big cities, but with a map or good directions, hiring a car is the best and most popular way to see LA. The city was designed with the automobile in mind and is more driver-friendly than most big cities with wide streets and plenty of parking. If possible, visitors should avoid rush hour traffic, which is heaviest from 7am to 10am and 3pm to 7pm, when freeways often come to a standstill. Many, however, are equipped with HOV (high-occupancy vehicle) lanes for those cars carrying more than one person - an attempt to curb vehicle emissions, these lanes tend to move more quickly. LA is one of the cheapest places in the country to rent a car. It is also possible to get around by bus, but frequent transfers and long distances can make this slow and impractical, and it is not recommended for late-night travel. The Metro rail system has three lines, which cover only a small area of LA, but it is frequent and efficient. Taxis are also available, but they can be expensive due to the long distances.
San DiegoSan Diego characterizes a typical Southern Californian beach city: with year-round sunshine and surf; a superb coastline with miles of sandy-white beaches; easygoing inhabitants, and a wide variety of world-class family attractions that draws tourists, long-time vacationers and would-be residents to 'America's finest city'.
Although California's second biggest city with an ever-increasing population of more than a million, San Diego prides itself on its conservative small-town ambience, with very little of the pollution, highway congestion and raciness of Los Angeles. In 1769 a Spanish missionary by the name of Father Junipero Serra established a Catholic mission and fortified settlement in what was later to become San Diego; it was the first permanent European settlement on the West Coast of the United States. It remained a village backwater until, with the bombing of Pearl Harbour during World War II, the US Naval Fleet Headquarters was relocated to San Diego Bay and the booming of wartime activity transformed it into a thriving city.
The city is a vibrant collection of colorful neighborhoods and communities. It has award-winning restaurants, trendy shopping districts, attractions such as the world-renowned San Diego Zoo and SeaWorld, and a dynamic downtown district that includes the city's historic Gaslamp Quarter. There are numerous indications of its Mexican and Spanish heritage: in the architecture, the typical Mexican cuisine, and the strong links with the town of Tijuana just across the Mexican border.
San Diego is also rich in art and culture and the city boasts the largest urban cultural park in the US, with beautiful gardens and Spanish architecture featuring 15 museums, art galleries and theaters to be found in Balboa Park. More than 70 miles (113km) of beaches around the city offer superb surfing and beach activities and provide the perfect introduction to this accessible and laid-back city.
Getting Around: Getting around San Diego is relatively easy without a car, with three types of public transport servicing the city. Buses and the Trolley light rail cover the city, but service generally stops around midnight. The Trolley is the best way to get to the border with Mexico for trips to Tijuana. Passes are available from the Transit Store for both bus and trolley fares; it also provides timetables and route information. A Coaster train service operates during morning and evening rush hours, linking downtown with the outlying northern coastal communities as well as providing four services on Saturdays. The Coronado Ferry as well as a water taxi service shuttle passengers between the city and Coronado Island (also connected to the mainland by bridge). Privately-owned Old Town Trolley Tours offers hop-on, hop-off narrated tours of places of interest for tourists, though this option is a bit more expensive than the public Trolley. Taxis must be ordered by phone, but waiting times can be long. Cycling is a popular way to get around San Diego, and there are numerous bike hire shops and many designated bicycle lanes. Some bus routes, the trolleys and the Coronado Ferry offer free passage of bicycles, allowing people to get to an area by public transport and then explore from there. Although possible to get around using public transport, many people prefer to rent a car, especially as there is no public transport late at night, and some areas are easier and quicker to get to by car. The city is easy to navigate with well laid out highways, and parking meters are plentiful. Car rental agencies require a credit card or cash deposit and a valid driver's license, and the minimum age is usually 25 years.
North Coast Redwoods DistrictThe misty, rugged North Coast lies in stark contrast to the sunny, sandy beaches around the southern cities of San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego that epitomise the Californian beach lifestyle. Stretching north of San Francisco to the Oregon border there are endless miles of rocky coastline, with panoramic views of towering cliffs and crashing waves.
Aside from seascapes the region boasts some of the oldest and tallest trees on earth, magnificent coastal redwoods that are thousands of years old and hundreds of feet high. A huge network of national, state and regional parks have joined together to preserve the acres of remaining old-growth redwood forests threatened by heavy logging. The State Parks of Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods make up the Redwood National and State Parks.
The redwood forests include giants that grow to more than 300ft (91m) tall. The parks offer miles of hiking trails, camping and picnicking, scenic drives, rivers and an abundance of wildlife including bears, elk and deer. Prairie Creek is the most popular park containing herds of Roosevelt Elk, weighing up to 400 pounds (181kg); trails with spectacular coastal views; Tall Trees Grove sheltering the world's tallest tree at 367ft (112m); and the impressive Cathedral Tree where nine massive trees have grown together from one root.
Further south the Humboldt Redwoods State Park, California's largest state park, is the site of the 33-mile (53km) long Avenue of the Giants, a spectacular scenic drive lined by some of the world's tallest trees. Along the route are several 'attractions' such as the hollow Chimney Tree where the Hobbit has his mythical home, and a Drive-Thru Tree that allows tourists to drive through a living hollow redwood. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park boasts the most astounding drive in the Redwoods National Park District, the Howland Hill Road that winds through incredibly magnificent old-growth forest that is considered to be one of the most beautiful areas on earth.
Central CoastCalifornia's central coast comprises some of the most spectacular shoreline including the Monterey Peninsula and the Big Sur coast, with gnarled trees, cliffs, rugged shores and bays.
The Pacific Coast Highway stretches along most of California's coastline and from San Francisco it passes the small bayside city of Santa Cruz with its famous Beach Boardwalk to the Monterey Peninsula. Called the 'jewel of the Central Coast', Monterey's beauty has been immortalized by artists, writers and photographers, appearing in books like John Steinbeck's 'Cannery Row' and the black and white photographs of Ansel Adams. Its diverse cultural heritage is evident in its Spanish architecture and lively harbor and wharf.
Monterey marks the northern edge of the wild and undeveloped Big Sur coast with Highway 1 crawling along the edge of the rocky cliffs that hang precipitously over the crashing surf below. Big Sur refers to the entire 90-mile (145km) stretch of wilderness between Monterey and San Simeon. The often nerve-racking drive, especially when blanketed in thick fog, takes visitors along one of the most dramatic and exhilarating coastlines on earth, hemmed between the mountains of the Santa Lucia Range and the Pacific Ocean. The area provides a peaceful respite from the frantic energy of the cities, with little more to do than enjoy the mountains, cliff-top views and occasionally accessible beach coves.
The highway curves into the wealthy American Riviera town of Santa Barbara, an attractive coastal town with golden beaches, red-tile roofs and outdoor cafes.
National ParksNational parks in the state of California encompass a wide range of ecosystems, from the spectacular desert scenery and vegetation of Death Valley and Joshua Tree National Parks, and Lassen Volcanic National Park's active volcanic landscape, to the marine life and kelp forests of the island chain lying off the south coast that make up the Channel Islands National Park. Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks feature impressive deep canyons and geological formations, while the glacial valley at Yosemite contains mighty granite monoliths, cliffs and waterfalls.
Ski ResortsCalifornia has some of the best skiing in North America with a ski season running from November to June. The two main ski areas are Lake Tahoe, which is around 200 miles (322km) inland from San Francisco, and Mammoth Mountain, 165 miles (266km) from Reno and 325 miles (523km) from Los Angeles. Lake Tahoe straddles the border between Nevada and California and separates the North Shore and South Shore ski regions. The North Shore is the quieter of the two and includes the resorts of Sugar Bowl, Squaw Valley, Alpine Meadows, Northstar, Homewood Mountain and Diamond Peak. The largest resorts in the South Lake Tahoe Area are Heavenly, Kirkwood and Sierra-at-Tahoe.
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