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Plaza Mayor and Plaza San MartinCity/Region: Lima
A long pedestrian street crowded with shoppers, vendors and sightseers connects Lima's two main plazas to each other. The heart of the old town is centered on the striking Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, gracefully colonial with its bronze fountain and old street lamps. It was once the central marketplace, where bullfights were held during Spanish rule. Surrounding the square are several notable buildings, including the grand Spanish Baroque Cathedral, occupying the site of
an ancient Inca temple and housing the Museum of Religious Art and Treasures; the impressive Government Palace where the changing of the guard takes place; the Town Hall; and the Archbishop's Palace sporting a beautiful wooden balcony. The Plaza San Martin is an impressive square with a hive of activity surrounding its central fountains; a busy area of shoe-shiners, soapbox speakers, street artists and the site for political rallies and rioting workers.
Transport: Buses marked Avenida Tacna go to within a few blocks of either square
Museo de la Nación (National Museum)City/Region: Lima
The superb anthropological and archaeological National Museum contains excellent exhibits tracing the history of Peru's ancient civilizations and provides an outstanding overview of the archaeological richness of the country. It is the city's largest and the country's most important museum and the chronological layout guides visitors easily through the complicated ancient history, highlighting the many conquering cultures and their achievements, from the art and history of the original inhabitants to the Inca Empire.
Address: Avenida Javier Prado Este 2465, San Borja
Phone Number: (0)1 476 9875 or 476 9882
Transport: Bus marked Javier Prado/Aviacion or taxi from Lima Centro or Miraflores
Hours: Tuesday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 6pm
Admission: S/. 9 (adults). Concessions available
Museo de Oro del Peru (Gold Museum)City/Region: Lima
Housed in a fortress-like building are the safe-rooms crammed with treasures from the Inca civilization and their predecessors. The massive collection of gleaming gold, ceremonial objects and jewelry compete for attention, and the famous golden Tumi, the symbol of Peru, has been exhibited around the world. The rest of the museum is just as interesting with thousands of exquisite tapestries, pre-Incan weapons and wooden staffs, masks, mummies, and clothing. There is also a vast display of antique weapons and uniforms, a reminder of Peru's violent past.
Address: Avenida Alonso de Molina 1100, Monterrico
Phone Number: (0)1 345 1271, 345 1292 or 345 1787
Website: www.museoroperu.com.pe
Transport: From corner of Avenida Javier Prado and Avenida Aviacion take a bus to Avenida Angamos and change to one marked "Universidad de Lima". Ask the driver to let you off at the Museo de Oro
Hours: Daily 11.30am to 7pm
Admission: S/. 30 concessions available
Museo Rafael Larco HerreraCity/Region: Lima
The 18th century colonial-style museum houses the largest and most impressive ceramic collection in the world, with about 55,000 pre-Colombian clay pots on display. The collection concentrates on the refined ceramics of the Moche Dynasty, the people who lived along the northern coast of Peru between 200 and 700 AD. The Moche culture is recognized as accomplishing one of the greatest imaginative languages of ancient Peru through the use of creative pottery, providing clues to all aspects of their civilization without the use of the written word. One can learn about their religion, agriculture, transport, dance and music through their ceramic designs and shapes. The Moche are also renowned for their fascinating erotic pottery and the famous collection is on display in the separate 'Erotic Hall', depicting sexual practices of several Peruvian cultures in a lifelike, explicit and often humorous way.
Address: 1515 Avenida Bolivar, Pueblo Libre
Phone Number: (0)1 461 1312 or 461 1835
Website: www.museolarco.org
Transport: Take a minibus to the Avenida Brasil and then another to Avenida Bolivar
Hours: Daily 9am to 6pm
Admission: S/. 30, concessions available
Church of San FranciscoCity/Region: Lima
The most spectacular of Lima's colonial churches, San Francisco is a striking white and yellow building with twin towers and a stone façade. It was one of the few buildings to survive the devastation of the 1746 earthquake and is famous for its underground catacombs that contain the bones and skulls of an estimated 70,000 people. The interior of the church has arches and columns decorated with beautiful mosaic tiles and an exquisitely carved Moorish-style wooden ceiling above the staircase leading to the cloisters. The church also contains a superb 17th century library with thousands of antique texts and a room containing painted masterpieces by Reubens, Van Dyck and Jordaens.
Address: Corner of Lampa and Ancash Avenues
Hours: Daily 9am to 4.45pm
Admission: S/. 5 concessions available
PiscoCity/Region: Lima
Pisco is a small port and fishing village, best known for its fiery white grape brandy of the same name. It also boasts the origins of one of the major ancient civilizations in Peru, the Paracas culture, who left an astounding collection of antiquities that are displayed in the museums of Lima. The area is primarily visited as a base to see the wildlife of the nearby Paracas National Reserve, home to an incredible variety and huge concentration of marine animals and birds. Locals proudly proclaim it to be the 'Peruvian Galapagos', and the main focus of a visit to the reserve is a boat tour of the Ballestas Islands. The islands are off limits to people but the boat tours afford spectacular close up views of the wildlife. The rocks are alive with thousands of migratory and resident sea birds, including pelicans, flamingos, penguins, cormorants, red boobies and terns. Huge colonies of barking sea lions line the shores, and turtles, dolphins and sometimes whales are seen in the surrounding waters. En route to the islands boats pass the famous Candelabra, a gigantic trident-shaped drawing etched into the sandstone cliffs overlooking the bay, and like the drawings at Nazca, its origins remain a mystery.
Address: Pisco is 150 miles (95km) south of Lima
Transport: Many buses serve Pisco from Lima. A good option is Ormeno
NazcaCity/Region: Lima
Nazca is a small desert town, named for the Nazca civilization that came after the Paracas culture, and it is a major attraction due to the mysterious presence of the lines and diagrams etched into the surrounding desert floor. It also has some interesting museums and archaeological sites, including the Chauchilla Cemetery, with 12 exposed underground tombs containing skeletons and preserved mummified forms. The main attraction of the town is an aerial flight over the Nazca Lines that are spread over miles of the vast desert floor. The dimensions of these enormous figures, geometric designs, spirals and perfectly straight lines are so large that the only way to view them is from the air and pilots will point out the outlines of intriguing bird and animal representations such as the hummingbird, monkey, condor, spider, and the unusual cartoon-like character known as the Astronaut. These figures were made by removing sun-darkened stones from the desert floor to expose the lighter colored stones below, and were created over a thousand years ago. Theories abound regarding the mysterious desert etchings, and questions as to why they were created, how they were designed and what technology was used, remain unanswered and have puzzled experts for centuries. The Nazca Lines are among the most unforgettable and strangest sights in the country, an extraordinary legacy left by the ancient people of the Nazca culture, and one of the great mysteries of South America.
Address: Nazca is a few miles in from the coast, 280 miles (175km) southeast of Lima
Transport: Ormeño and Civa are the best bus companies with offices in Nazca
Plaza de ArmasCity/Region: Cuzco
The graceful main square, Plaza de Armas, is lined with colonial-style covered walkways and houses that contain souvenir shops, restaurants, bars and travel agencies. The large Cathedral is the most prominent structure overlooking the square and is adjoined to a church on either side, the Iglesia Jesus María and Iglesia El Triunfo. Inside is the elaborately carved wooden altar, covered in gold and silver plate, and the carved wooden choir stalls that are acclaimed to be the finest in the country. Also of interest is the painting The Last Supper, which portrays Jesus and his disciples gathered around the table, on which a central platter of the local Inca delicacy, 'cuy' or roasted guinea pig, is placed. Also on the plaza is La Compañía, one of Cuzco's most ornately decorated churches, often floodlit at night. The streets and alleys around the plaza are filled with color and bustling handicraft stalls. The historic pedestrian alleyway of Loreto, leading away from the plaza, is lined with Inca stone walls.
Hours: Cathedral: Monday to Saturday 10am to 11.30pm and 2pm to 5.30pm, Sunday 2pm to 5pm
Admission: Cathedral: S/.13
Coricancha Inca RuinsCity/Region: Cuzco
Coricancha is a Quechua word meaning 'Golden Courtyard', but the Inca stonework is all that remains of the ancient Temple of the Sun, which was the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. The walls and floors were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and the courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of its opulence that was 'fabulous beyond belief'. The Church of Santo Domingo was built on the site, using the ruined foundations of the temple that was flattened by the gold-hungry Spanish in the 17th century, and is a fine example of where Inca stonework has been incorporated into the structure of a colonial building. Major earthquakes have severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone, still stand as a testimony to their superb architectural skills and sophisticated stone masonry. Nearby is an underground archaeological site museum containing a number of interesting pieces, including mummies, textiles and sacred idols.
Hours: Daily 9am to 5.30pm
Admission: The site is part of the Cuzco Tourist Card that allows entry to all Inca sites around the city and museums; full ticket S/. 70 partial ticket S/. 40 The temple requires a separate ticket of S/. 6
SacsayhuamánCity/Region: Cuzco
Of the four ruins near Cuzco, Sacsayhuamán is the closest and the most remarkable. Its proximity to Cuzco and the dimensions of its stones caused it to be used as a quarry by the Spanish conquistadors, providing building material for their colonial buildings in the city below. The complex suffered such destruction by the Spanish conquistadors that little is known about the actual purpose these magnificent buildings served, but it is usually referred to as a fortress, constructed with high, impenetrable walls, although it is also believed to have been a ceremonial or religious center. The ruins cover an enormous area, but only about 20 percent of the original complex remains and are a fine example of extraordinary Inca stone masonry. It is estimated the complex took 100 years to build, using thousands of men in its construction, the massive blocks of stone fitting together perfectly without the aid of mortar, one weighing over 300 tons and standing 16ft (5m) tall. The magnificent center was the site of the infamous bloody battle between the Spanish and the Inca people in 1536 that left thousands of the native people dead, providing food for the circling condors, and ever since the Cuzco Coat of Arms has featured eight condors in memory of the event. Today it holds the annual celebrations of Cuzco's most important festival, Inti Raymi, the sun festival, a spectacular and colorful affair that re-enacts the Inca winter solstice festival every June.
Transport: A steep 40 minute (2km) walk up from the Plaza de Armas
Hours: Open daily from 7am to 5.30pm
Admission: The site is part of the Cuzco Tourist Card that allows entry to all Inca sites around the city and museums; full ticket S/. 70, partial ticket S/. 40
The Sacred Valley (Urubamba River Valley)City/Region: Cuzco
Known as the Sacred Valley of the Incas, this fertile valley of breathtaking beauty, stretching between the villages of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, is coursed by the winding Urubamba River, watched over by ancient Inca ruins perched high on the hilltops above, and sprinkled with little traditional settlements in between. Centrally situated Urubamba has the most tourist infrastructure and is becoming a popular base from which to explore the valley. The most well known sites are the citadel above Pisac and the fortress of Ollantaytambo, which receive the most visitors. The quaint village of Pisac is known for its interesting Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday morning markets, while overlooking the village are the ruins of the citadel, with its fine stonework and panoramic views over the valley. Agricultural terraces flank the steep sides of the mountain and have been in use for many centuries, and above them the alarmingly narrow trails that lead to the citadel hug the cliffs, with massive stone doorways, and steep stairways cut into the rock or a rock-hewn tunnel forming the only passageway between the sheer drop below and the vertical slopes above. At the far end of the Sacred Valley, the road terminates at the ancient traditional town of Ollantaytambo, where the temple-fortress clings to the nearby cliffs. Developed as an Inca administrative center, the town's layout is one of the few remaining models of an Inca grid plan and the existing town is built on the remaining Inca foundations. The ruins include the Temple of the Sun, the Royal Chamber and the Princess' Baths. From the town the road leads to the start of the illustrious Inca Trail.
Transport: Pisac is a one-hour bus journey from Cuzco. The Pisac citadel is a 30-minute walk up from behind the main square or 20 minutes by taxi. Ollantaytambo is situated midway on the Cusco-Machu Picchu train route, or can be reached by bus with a change at Urubamba
Hours: Ruins are open daily 7am to 5.30pm
Admission: The ruins of Ollantaytambo and Pisac are part of the Cuzco Tourist Card; full ticket S/.70, partial ticket S/.40
Machu PicchuCity/Region: Cuzco
The ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu is regarded as the most significant archaeological site in South America and one of the finest examples of landscape architecture in the world. Nestled high in the towering Andes Mountains on a saddle between two peaks is this most spectacular and enthralling of Inca citadels, 'The Lost City of the Incas'. Totally concealed from below it escaped destruction by the Spanish, and was only discovered by the western world in 1911 when an American explorer stumbled across the thickly overgrown ruins in their majestic setting high in the clouds. Surrounded by steep agricultural terraces and grazing llamas, the ruins consist of a central plaza, a sacred ceremonial area with intricately carved temples and royal tombs, palaces, stairways and perfectly balanced archways, towers, food storehouses, ornate fountains and water canals. Highlights of the site include one of the most famous Inca constructions, the sacred Temple of the Sun, with its distinctive round tapering tower and the center stone that is illuminated by the rays of the sun every winter solstice. Huayna Picchu forms a dramatic backdrop to the city and a treacherously steep stone trail leads to a platform offering dizzy views of the city below and a sweeping panorama of the surrounding mountains and forests. Despite the continuous hordes of tourists the ancient Inca citadel preserves its sense of mystery and majesty, especially in the quieter hours after sunrise and before sunset, when the light and wispy strands of mist create an aura of isolated majesty.
Website: www.enjoy-machu-picchu.org
Transport: Trains leave from Cuzco and Urubamba in the Sacred Valley, to Aguas Calientes from where a bus transports passengers to the ruins at the top of the mountain. There is also a path leading up to the ruins from Aguas Calientes for those who prefer to walk
Hours: Daily 6am to 5pm. Huayna Picchu closes at 3pm
Admission: US$20 (adults), US$10 (students). Keep the entrance ticket for half price entry on the second day. Trekkers on the Inca Trail do not need to pay an entrance fee
Santa Catalina MonasteryCity/Region: Arequipa
Enclosed within high walls is the Santa Catalina Monastery, an enormous complex of rooms, pretty little plazas and ornate fountains, a maze of narrow cobbled streets, chapels, beautifully decorated archways and boxes of red geraniums. The thick and brightly painted walls contain numerous cells that once housed over 200 members of the female nobility who chose to shut themselves away from the rest of the world in a life devoted entirely to prayer. Some 400 years later the monastery was opened to the world and since then visitors have been able to wander through the exquisitely finished gates and admire the valuable collection of some of the finest examples of existing Spanish American religious art that decorate the walls. Today, about 30 resident nuns live out of sight in the northern part of the complex. Noteworthy is the Orange Tree Cloister, painted a sky-blue with beautiful murals decorating the vaulted arches, as well as the huge 17th-century kitchen with its blackened walls, and the long and narrow street known as Calle Toledo, which is the oldest part of the monastery and leads to the open air laundry where the nuns washed their clothes in large jugs filled from the canal. Unlike any other church compound, Santa Catalina is a masterpiece of colonial architecture, and is the most fascinating religious complex in Peru.
Address: Santa Catalina 301
Phone Number: (0)54 229 798
Website: www.santacatalina.org.pe
Hours: Daily 9am to 5pm, last entry at 4pm
Admission: S/. 25
Museo Santuarios Andinos (Museum of Andean Sanctuaries)City/Region: Arequipa
The small museum's most famous attraction is the 600 year old frozen body of Juanita, the young Inca girl who was discovered in near perfect condition on top of the Ampato Volcano in 1995. She was killed as a sacrificial offering to the mountain gods and buried in a tomb with a number of funeral offerings that are also on display in the museum, along with other ice mummies found on the mountain. The body had been encased in ice and preserved by the freezing temperatures on the 20,000ft (6,000m) peak for hundreds of years, and was found after a volcanic eruption melted the ice and exposed the tomb. The Ice Maiden is displayed in a refrigerated glass case, and analysis of her DNA has afforded great insights into the Inca culture. An interesting video documents the discovery and is included as part of the compulsory tour.
Address: Santa Catalina 210
Phone Number: (0)54 200 345
Hours: Monday to Saturday 9am to 5.45pm, and Sunday 9am to 3pm
Admission: S/. 15, concessions available
The Colca CanyonCity/Region: Arequipa
The most popular excursion from Arequipa is to the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world, and twice the depth of Arizona's Grand Canyon. The Colca valley is extremely picturesque, dominated by huge mountains, with little villages and a distinctive traditional dress, lively market places and grand churches, green agricultural terraces hugging the hillsides and herds of wandering llamas. The Crux del Condor Lookout is the most popular viewing point and also the best place to see giant condors soaring on incredible wingspans above the dramatic depths of the canyon below. Many people stay in the quaint market town of Chivay, three hours from Arequipa, with a good range of accommodation, restaurants and bus services, and an excellent base from which to explore the region at leisure. There are many hiking opportunities in the surrounding hills and energetic travelers can hike down to the bottom of the canyon and overnight in one of the tiny Indian settlements below.
Transport: Public bus from Terminal Terrestre or San Juan de Dios 510, Arequipa. Organized tours also visit the canyon daily. It is a five-hour journey
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